The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum Review: Skincare Deep Dives


What is polyglutamic acid and why do you need it in your life? We’re going on a deep dive review into The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum. Let’s break it down.

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The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum currently retails for $14.99 at Sephora for 1oz of product (that’s run of the mill sizing for a serum). For USA customers, The Inkey List is a Sephora exclusive brand that focuses on simply formulated products that zero in on active ingredients. For those in Europe, you can purchase the skincare line online from TheInkeyList.com.

The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum Review: Skincare Deep Dives

This is fragrance, dye, and paraben-free and falls under the “Clean Beauty” category at Sephora. This product is cruelty-free and vegan.

From the brand:

“A powerful hydrator for the skin\’s surface, Polygluatmic Acid can hold 4x more moisture than Hyaluronic Acid, locking in moisture and helping the skin appear instantly smoother. This 3% high molecular weight amino polymer is specifically designed to enhance skin moisturization on the surface. This helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines, as well as brighten and even skin tone.”

What’s in The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum?

This has a 3% concentration of polyglutamic acid and a pH level of 6.0-7.0. Dimethicone is the second ingredient in this formula and you can definitely tell that it’s a high concentration from the feeling of this serum. It gives the serum a silky smooth feeling and leaves the skin richly moisturized. Dimethicone is an emollient used in many moisturizers and serums, it creates a water-permeable barrier on the skin that helps seal in moisture and prevent water loss in the skin.

This plays well as a base under makeup and mixes in easily with oil and water-based skincare.

The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum Review: Skincare Deep Dives

From Sephora:

Water, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Bis-PEG-12 Dimethicone, Glycerin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysilicone-11, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglutamic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Propanediol, Coco-Glucoside, Sodium Benzoate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polysorbate 80, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Decyl Glucoside, Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Sorbitan Oleate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract.

FYI: As of when I wrote this article, TheInkeyList.com has the wrong ingredients list on the Polyglutamic Acid product page, it looks like they accidentally listed the formula for their The Inkey List Vitamin B, C, And E Moisturizer which is a radically different formulation. Don’t let that throw you off!

Benefits of Polyglutamic Acid

What Skincare Types Should use The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid?

This serum is suitable for all skin types, but those struggling with dry flaky skin will see the most dramatic benefits from adding a PGA serum to their skincare routine. This formula has zero questionable ingredients in my eyes and would be great for sensitive, mature, and acne-prone skin types as well.

If you have extremely oily skin, the dimethicone in this formula may be too rich of a texture for you. I personally have dry skin and this formula leaves my skin feeling pleasantly velvety and plump but it could feel slightly heavy if you struggle with excess oil.

Is Polyglutamic Acid Good For Dry Skin?

The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum needs to be at the top of your shopping list if you battle dry skin. It is a humectant that gives very similar results to hyaluronic acid, but here’s the kicker, it can retain 4x more moisture in the skin than HA! But don’t kick your trusty HA serum to the curb quite yet:

“Hyaluronic acid works within the skin to increase moisture levels deep down, polyglutamic acid can actually increase the production of natural moisturizing factors on the skin’s surface to improve hydration”.

Dr. Monica Li, Dermatologist & clinical instructor at the University of British Columbia

Pairing PGA and HA together creates a powerful hydrating duo! If you have severely dry skin I would even suggest using both serums in your nightly routine.

Just be sure that you’re giving your skin ample time to absorb the first serum before adding more product to your skin. If you use too much or apply products too quickly it can lead to the product “pilling up” and rubbing off your skin before it has a chance to soak in. Already having trouble with your skincare pilling up? Hop over to my article on why this happens and how to stop it.

Is it Worth It?

The Inkey List is literally the only brand I have found that has a reasonably priced PGA product. I’ve scoured the internet and the only other product available online is from ASDM Beverly Hills.

$14.99 for a serum that gives fast results is a steal in my book and this will be a lifesaver for anyone struggling with dry flaky skin. I incorporated this into my daily skincare routine and this bottle lasted me a little over a month and a half. I’ve been very happy with the results and will be repurchasing this the next time I place a Sephora order.

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